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[转载分享]去不够的古徽州,听不完的老故事 [复制链接]

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离线aben9133
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楼主  发表于: 2018-12-13
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我想告诉你的徽州 WiZTE(NM`  
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徽州 ,与其说它是一个地方,不如说它是一种符号。代表着白墙黑瓦的建筑,代表着徽商的儒雅,也代表了毛豆腐、臭鳜鱼的可口。古 徽州 地区主要位于现在的 黄山 市,以及周边的 宣城 绩溪 以及 江西婺源 等地。但我还是喜欢叫现在的 黄山 市为 徽州 ,因为换成什么名字感觉都不够贴切。我喜欢到 徽州 ,近几年也来过许多次。有一个人背着包,也有带着家人来自驾,也有和一群小伙伴来旅行,很奇妙的是每一次的到来,都能给我带来一些新的旅行感悟。这一次我又来了!在这秋末冬初的季节,走进 唐模 、 西递 、 卢村 这三座古村,来一次 徽州 古村落的深度游。当然最后一天我也没忘野一把,去到了齐云山自由家基地体验了一把户外的乐趣。 x<' $  
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有人说 徽州 的古村长的不都一样吗?去一座就够了!没错, 徽州 的古村基本上都是沿河而建,从建筑风格,村子以及宅子的格局来看颇为相似。但深入到细节,以及流传的人文故事来看,村子之间的差别还是蛮大的,所以我才会一口气去了三座古村。当然,三天的时间我所接触到的人和故事也比较有限,所以每个村子我会挑选三个我印象深刻、觉得有趣的小故事,然后结合自己的旅行感悟分享给大家。 gmgri   
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对了,千万不要多乡村留下什么刻板的印象。因为这里的旅游开发已经相当成熟了,均有良好的硬件设施。就拿一点来说,我甚至在景区入口看到了许多自动贩卖机,可以随时购买零食和饮料。更别说吃饭、住宿这些最基本的旅行需求了,放心大胆的来玩吧! ]'M B3@T  
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离线aben9133
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沙发  发表于: 2018-12-13
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DAY1: 合肥 - 黄山 (高铁G7403,13:33到达), 唐模 古村,入住 唐模 法国 家庭旅馆; VS3lz?o?6g  
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DAY2: 唐模 - 西递 - 卢村 ,入住花筑悦. 宏村 艺术小镇客栈; -"rANP-UI  
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DAY3:齐云山自由家营地, 黄山 - 合肥 (高铁G7418,15:33出发)。 &v#pS!UOj  
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这次旅行的大交通是高铁, 黄山 市除了通高铁以外,也有自己的机场——屯溪机场,因此从全国各地到这边都不算太麻烦,毕竟这里是国际知名的旅游城市,很多外国人都来。而到了 黄山 北站以后,去往各个村子,以及村子之间的往返是没有特别便利的公交和旅游大巴的,打车更加不现实,所以能有辆专车显得十分重要。这次没有自驾车来,于是就和一起来的小伙伴在网上找了 黄山 松都旅行社的包车定制游,一辆商务车带着我们走,跟自驾游就没什么区别,而且更加省心了。 57KrDxE}  
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唐模 距离 黄山 北站只有10km左右的车程,因此理所当然的作为了此行的第一站。我们在 黄山 北站集合后就直接来到了这里,并且晚上的吃住都是在景区内。 唐模 有着“ 中国 水口第一村”的美誉,门票80元,是国家5A级景区,可玩性很强。 L;WFHIE  
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【故事一:两棵树的故事】 Shv$"x:W  
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在 唐模 有两棵有名的树,一颗是古银杏,当年正是因为这颗树而选址建村,到现在已经有1200多年的历史了,也就是说村子也已经有1000多年的历史了,可真了不得!从个人情感上来说,我真的很喜欢银杏树,因为在我的小时候,乡下的爷爷家也有这么一颗银杏树,每年也正是在这个落叶的季节。我总是喜欢在树下挑一片最完美的叶子回去当书签。现在爷爷不在了,乡下的银杏树也不在了,我却在这 唐模的古银杏下找到了一些熟悉感。 yb,X }"Et  
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这份归属感其实还是来自于人,树下有个阿婆在卖着自己炒的银杏。因为当天是非周末,游客相对较少,于是我花了五块钱买了她一袋银杏和她聊了起来。她跟我聊了一些村子里很接地气的老故事,不像导游一样讲的较为官方,甚至我们还聊到了平常拿白萝卜喂猪这些很生活的东西,就像我来乡下走亲戚一样的亲切。 G1\F7A  
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另外一颗树是有着400多年树龄的香 樟树 ,却被周围的村民们称为大槐树。经过导游介绍才知道这是一颗明星树,曾经在经典 黄梅 戏《天仙配》里充当过月老,所以后来也被当地人称为“天下第一媒”,媒婆的“媒”。原来这指桑骂槐不是什么好话,但以樟代槐却成就了一段佳话。树下挂满了同心锁,树枝上也挂了很多祈福的红丝带。村民们也热情的向我和其他的游客兜售着红丝带,我说我们现在年轻人都在微博上转发锦鲤了,手机屏保用的都是杨超越小姐姐,已经不挂红丝带啦。但我还是非常乐意的买了他们的红薯吃,这乡村里的美食可都是好东西。 mHV{9J  
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全明升ms88人都在玩这个神器
 
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板凳  发表于: 2018-12-13
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【故事二:小西湖的故事】 BQ&h&57K  
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唐模 古村里有“汪”、“许”两大姓氏,据说是汪家建村,由许家发扬光大。上面说的那颗古银杏就是由汪姓人所栽。而 唐模 里最雅致的景观“檀干园”却是由许姓人所造。这是一处完全模仿 杭州 西湖而建的园林景观,特别是我第一眼所看到的“镜亭”,明明就是和西湖的湖心亭一模一样啊。而亭子前面的那片湖水也被称为“小西湖”。 *X zUqK  
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在我的印象里, 徽州 古村很少会有这样较大规模的园林景观。而这些仿照西湖诸景所建的景观其实背后是有一个很感人的故事。清代 唐模 有位叫许以诚的巨商,在全国开了36家当铺。为了弥补其母想去杭州 西湖却因年老体衰不得成行的遗憾,而斥巨资所建,因此小西湖也被称为“孝子湖”。在我看来,孝顺不是一定要去做几件惊天动地的大事,而是应该渗入到生活的点点滴滴中去。不过,对于有钱人来说,可能造园林也只是生活的点滴吧?哈哈,反正这个小故事我是蛮感动的。 J<zg 'Jk^  
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【故事三:来自 法国 的故事】 gddGl=rm  
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法国 ?听起来好像和 唐模 八竿子打不着一点关系。但是在来的路上就看到了一块“ 唐模 法国 家庭旅馆”的指示牌板,我们晚上也是被安排住在了这里。它也是一座由景区官方运营的特色民宿。说实话,这个名字刚听起来总觉得有点奇怪,毕竟“旅馆”两个字给人的印象通常层次不高。我的字面理解可能是在唐模 开了一家 法国 风格的旅馆吧?但是办理了入住,听了介绍才发现这里并不是这么简单,甚至可以说是大有来头。 8ksDXf`.  
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法国 ,这两个字并不是这家民宿的噱头,因为它是 安徽 旅游集团与 法国 相关部分合作开发的乡村旅游项目,是获得 法国 家庭旅馆联合会授权的,也是该品牌首次在 欧洲 以外地区使用。但作为游客来说,这些我了解一下就行了,我更多关心的还是民宿的入住体验呀。民宿的整体风格还是白墙黑瓦的徽派建筑为主,格局上来看和村子里的古宅没有太大的区别,进门处一样的有着标志性的“聚财”大水缸,中堂里的摆台也是典型的东瓶西镜,中间再放个大钟的格局。以及匾额、字画都非常的讲究。只是在楼梯,采光、通风上根据现实的情况和方便游客的角度做出了一定的改良,毕竟民宿住的舒适最重要。 hU{%x#8}lK  
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那么这个民宿和 法国 的关系是在哪呢?工作人员说,是对古民居的开发与保护理念以及家庭旅馆的一个管理是借鉴了 法国 的先进模式。而从游客的角度来看,我就发现了房间内也不乏一些西方的装饰元素在里面, 比如 说下面的吊灯和复古的电话机,可能也是因为这些物品的年代和 徽州 古宅没有特别大的出入,这激情的中西碰撞倒也显得十分和谐。 aBnbu vp  
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离线aben9133
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地板  发表于: 2018-12-13
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西递 的名头很大,和 宏村 一样是 徽州 最有名的村落之一。它的得名于村内三条溪水向西流,并且曾经在此地传递公文信件。没想到这么富有诗意的两个字,仅仅是源于当时最普通的生活。其实这也算是徽州 古村的优点吧,生活画面感特别强。早就听说过 西递 ,但还是第一次来,来了才知道这是一处“胡”姓的聚居地,哎呀!本家。于是,这一次我跑的比谁都快,想要多去了解一下这个 大名 鼎鼎的村子。 OFp#<o,p  
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【故事一:黑多石的故事】 DVbYShB  
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西递 所在的地方位于 黄山 市 黟县 ,“黟”字都yi(第一声),如果是第一次看到,可能也会有很多的人和我以前一样不知道读什么。直到现在,除了在这里当作县名,我还没在其它地方遇到过这个字。因为“黟”字由“黑”和“多”组成,所以很多不认识的小伙伴会笑称它为黑多县,这样拆分也是和别人聊天时能作为一种表述吧!但没有想到的是,随行的导游告诉我们,在村子里我们脚下踩着的这些个大青石叫做黟县 青石,也叫“黑多石”,遇水颜色会变深。好吧,她没有告诉我黑多石得名的原因,但我想可能也是一个或者好几个学渣,因为读不好 黟县 青石几个字,才把它拆开口口相传而来的吧? KoFv0~8Q  
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石头的名字可以戏称为学渣喊出来的,但 西递 古村在整个 徽州 可以说是学霸级的存在。因为它的规模还算不小,村里留下了许许多多可以参观的老房子,这些老房子从装饰设计到字画雕刻都有极其讲究的设计,文字上的造诣相当深厚! 比如 下面对联上的“快”字少一笔,加到“辛”字上,表明了 徽州 人勤恳耐劳的特点。桃李园内有六块木雕屏门,上面刻着欧阳修的《醉翁亭记》,远看就像毛笔写的一般,但近看才知是漆刻而成,且全文中的21个“也”字,字体各不相同,可见手法之高明。 t&3 8@p  
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还有胡氏家族的总支祠“敬爱堂”,因为自古忠孝两难全,所以把忠、孝二字分开挂于祠内的两侧。可见再谨小慎微的地方, 西递 人都没有马虎,样样都是学霸级的存在。 y(V&z"wk[  
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【故事二:“夜明珠”的故事】 '9f6ZAnYpQ  
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这个故事说来有些好笑。我在 西递 美食街门口对着一块肉拍照的时候,一个拎蛋糕的小孩过来搭讪,我见他总是不自觉的盯着透明盒子里的蛋糕,便随口祝了他一句生日快乐,他也很自然的道了声谢。没想到我都走开了,他又跑过来递给我一颗带着体温的石头, 硬要送给我。这颗“夜明珠”看起来和鸡蛋差不多大小呀,我开玩笑把它发到朋友圈说这下自己可要发财了!然后我提出给小寿星拍个照,他也欣然同意了,给我来了一个特标准的立正。 )j]gm i"  
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我没想到的是这里的小孩一点都不怕生,甚至有些热情好客。走了一圈才发现 西递 的村民全都是见过世面的那种,卖米花糖的大姐硬塞给我刚出锅的米花糖;卖毛豆腐的大爷看我拍照还主动替我摆放,演示;卖古玩的大哥给我悉心的介绍着自己家的看家宝……可以看出这里的所有人都有着一个开放的心态,实属难得。也让我第一次来到 西递 ,就有了很强归属感,就像我也是他们村里的一个村民一般。 JHnk%h0  
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【故事三:晒腊 肉的故事】 =O<BMq{d  
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腊月到了,离新年就不远了。此时的 徽州 古村里都已经晒满了各种腊味,之前 唐模 也有,但相比于西递 的规模和腊味的丰富程度来看,还是要差了一些。这边古村的空气质量相当的好,即便近日周边许多城市都出现了雾霾,包括我出发的 合肥 更是重度污染,但我来到这里的时候依旧是蓝天白云。 as8<c4:v  
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看着晒在外面的鸡鸭鹅、鱼肉、黑猪肉在阳光下滴着油,特别喜人!我也不停的拿相机拍着照。过往的游客也有许多为它们驻足停留的,有人质疑说常吃腌制的食品是不是对身体不太好,不太健康。就有游客反驳道:“ 皖南 水好、空气好,这里的家禽、鱼类都是吃着健康的食物长大,没有化学饲料的喂养和催长。这样我们吃进肚子里才是最健康的,而且传统的新年里大家都是吃一些腊味呀,这才有年味!并不算常年去吃腌制食品。”说着说着他也挑好了几只鸡鸭和村民讨价还价了起来,并且表示自己住在 合肥 ,自驾来这里也不算特别远,所以每年快到新年都会来一次或者几次,把各种腊味带回去,送人或者自家食用都是极好的。我也比较赞同后面这位游客的说法,如果生活处处都要听网上那些所谓专家的建议,感觉人生将会寸步难行呀! bm^ou#]|  
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卢村 是个极其安逸的小村子,游客很少。可能我来的时候是非周末;也可能是它的规模真的不算大;还有可能是因为它距 宏村 仅1km之遥,被 宏村 的“主角光环”所掩盖。但我也十分珍惜这里的宁静,因为从喧闹的城市而来,能够难得的坐一会清闲之人。 M:?eK [h  
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【故事一:木雕楼的故事】 9>@_};l  
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卢村 虽然不大,但是这里的木雕楼雕刻技艺精湛,整个 徽州 古村乃至全国都无出其右。虽然很多都在历史上的特殊时期被毁,但从留存下来的木雕依旧不难看出这毫厘之间的精密。而这座木雕楼原本属于村中的大户人家,主人名曰卢百万,听这名字就知道是全村首富了。他精力也特别旺盛,娶了六房姨太太,打麻将还能富余两个在旁边换手的。这座名字叫做志诚堂的木雕楼就是当年大房和二房合住的地方,房间宽敞气派,这里的木雕都是出自当时 徽州 最好的木雕艺术家之手。 wrsETB c  
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【故事二: 德国 玻璃的故事】 l8\UO<^fY  
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在古代姨太太多的时候,正房妻子的地位向来很高,但往往最得宠的却总是最小的那位。没错,卢百万家里也是这种情况,最得宠的就是六姨太。来到她当年所住的双茶厅,虽然这气派程度不及志诚堂,但也不失精细。看得出卢百万可没少在她身上花心思,在180多年前就给她来了个中西合璧的设计,至今还保留下来了一面玻璃面的木屏门。那个时代想搞到这些玻璃可不像现在这么容易,都是从 德国 进口来的,而且最薄的只有2mm厚,而现在的技术最薄的也都要3mm厚。听到这里我只能说一句“天大地大,爱情伟大”。 szI7 I$Qb  
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因为 卢村 的屋内为防火是切断了电源的,回来我才发现在双茶厅里,居然只是用高感拍了上面这一张照。现在特别想知道它当年的格局如何,也特别好奇这位美若天仙的六姨太是何模样? rE3dHJN;  
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【故事三:土空调的故事】 !"rPSGK*  
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在很多的 徽州 古村里,虽然很多有代表性的老宅子都成了参观景点,但也不乏一些宅子的后人至今还居住在祖宅的。 卢村 的述理堂就是这样一座老宅子。这祖祖辈辈能够传承下来是真好,这房子就是最大的传家宝。 LdPLC':}x|  
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在这里导游给介绍了一下角落的这个地方,它是一口井,但井口也不过盘口大小。其实在许多的 徽州古宅里都能看到这个,包括之前的 西递 也有。在90年代很火的央视综艺节目《正大综艺》,里面的“世界真奇妙”栏目还去 西递 拍摄过。它的作用其实是在炎热的夏季起到降温的作用,道理等同于夏天里的井水也是自然冰凉的。而且 徽州 的古宅都是有天井设计的,雨水留下来虽然有口大缸接水,起到防火和“聚财”的作用,但还是需要一些排水系统的,这个“土空调”的洞口也能很好的起到排水的作用。老祖宗的智慧让我肃然起敬,在条件有限的年代里把创造力发挥到淋漓尽致。 7]ieBUf S  
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自由家营地 }lx'NY~(W  
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因为连续逛了一天半的古村落,最后一个半天,我们打算去玩点不一样的,毕竟年轻人的激情还需要在户外所释放。最终,我们选择的是在齐云山脚下的自由家营地。齐云山是出名的道教名山,海拔不算高,但周边生态环境极其优质。而自由家营地就是依托这最好的山水,打造的一处综合性的户外基地。 Hnvs{KC`  
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自由家的户外体验项目有很多,住在这里的游客可以免费畅玩。我们前一天没有住在这边,不过买了票也可以随意畅玩。并且景区内都是有观光车免费接驳的。毕竟高高低低的山路不便于行走,而且也容易迷路。 :N4?W}r.  
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比较简单刺激一些的户外项目有滑索,就是通过钢丝绳索和轨道划过山谷之间,速度较为平缓,稳定性很好,适合所有人群,也是小朋友锻炼胆量的好选择,还有很多大朋友边玩边拍摄视频发朋友圈,泰然自若。相比于滑索,高空探险除了考验挑战者的胆量以外,对身体素质以及协调性等等也是有一定锻炼的。它共分为三个等级,其中大部分人会挑战最低的那档,没有一些专业运动的能力也是不建议选最高档的那个,对身体素质的要求不是咬咬牙就过去的。而且挑战之前一定要听取工作人员讲解注意事项和操作规范,遇到困难千万不要慌就OK啦! F n*+uk  
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也许是前两日在 唐模 和 西递 花光了所有的好运气,今天在自由家玩了一会会就下起了大雨,像高尔夫、皮划艇这些户外的娱乐项目都没有来得及去玩。好在工作人员带我们去射箭场体验了一把百步穿杨的乐趣,虽然箭靶在外面,但射箭的地方是有棚子的,所以下雨也不会影响体验感。一开始我拉弓射箭的姿势有些笨拙,用了很大的力气,箭也没有从预定的轨道射出。在与旁边的游客阿姨讨教了一番经验,教练也给了我正确的示范,终于!终于!终于!我可以把箭射到靶子上了!要求不高,射中就行,如果想要箭无虚发、正中红心,那还得多来几次勤加练习才行。最起码从下面我拍出来的射箭姿势来看,还是挺有模有样的吧?我也不介意你们用沉着冷静,英姿飒爽、 玉树 临风这样的词语来形容我呀,哈哈。 JsQmn<Yt  
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美食推荐 2~`lvx  
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徽菜的最大特点可以用下面这八个字概括:“轻度腐败,严重好  色”。这里的“腐败”是指许多食材都是经过腌制和发酵的,“严重好    色”是指菜品盐味重,酱油多,菜色深沉。其中最具代表性的两道菜就数毛豆腐和臭鳜鱼了。这两道 徽州 特色美食具有相当独特的做法,是在外地轻易吃不到的,也是别的地方模仿不来的,想解馋只有到 皖南 来。这次来我们肯定也吃了,是在 宏村 外的1983徽菜馆。这是一家网评和口碑都非常好的老餐厅,人均价格40元左右,如果你刚好来 宏村 ,可以来尝尝,这两道菜都是很正宗的。 %S$P<nKN5  
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不过这次的美食推荐,我想说下代表 徽州 美食文化的“八大碗”。因为它是传承了千年的徽菜乡土味和饮食文化,也是徽文化的重要组成部分。八仙桌,八大碗,再坐上八个人, 徽州 人的朴实、 大方 与好客都汇聚在这餐“八大碗”之中。 PjwDth A1  
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这“八大碗”里的菜品未必是固定的哪几样菜,只是这吃菜的方式不会变。而且选用的食材也并非是什么稀少名贵的,都是当地人最爱吃的一些东西。 比如 我们前面看到村子里晒得那些腊味就有,还有冬笋、溪 水里 的鱼虾以及一些豆制品等等。我们此行的这顿“八大碗”是第一天晚上在 唐模 古村的七天井餐厅吃的,只不过把八仙桌换成了有转盘的大圆桌,这样可能更方便大家夹菜吧?但我也相信也有圆满之意,为这次旅行开了个好头! lw\+!}8(  
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这次旅行一共住了两晚,一晚在前面有说到的 唐模 法国 家庭旅馆,整体环境和风格特点都已经做过介绍。不过我这次和小伙伴一起住的房型是双床的标准间。空间很大,硬件设施也不差,甚至还有个可以泡澡的大浴缸,一个可以喝茶的小院子。 FRayB VHL  
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第二晚是在 卢村 参观结束后到 宏村 景区外面的花筑悦. 宏村 艺术小镇客栈,名字有点长,可以简称为“花筑”吧。因为 宏村 是个名气很大,非常成熟的5A级景区了,里里外外都有很多的民宿、客栈,我上次来就是住在景区内的。这次因为没有进去就选择了外面的花筑。但是感觉住在外面挺好的, 因为景区内的民宿寸土寸金,在空间和舒适性上是没有办法和花筑比的,唯一的优势可能就是离得近。但从花筑走到景区也不过两百米左右,但是空间大、房间多的优势却更值得拥有。 =uR3|U(.|u  
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花筑其实也是一家全国连锁的民宿酒店品牌。可以看出来我们住的这一家还是与 宏村 的整体风格高度契合的,采用的也是徽派建筑风格再混搭一些潮流元素,处处充满着亮点。 Fqh./@o  
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花筑一共有三层,我也是住在第三层的房间,这里的房型的选择也有很多种。亲子、阳台等等,爬上 天台 还可以眺望一下 宏村 。不过我和小伙伴还是住的实用的双床房。我特别喜欢房间里的细节设计, 比如 这回归古雅的圆镜,让我想到了古代电视剧里的女主角拿的铜镜都是这个形状。而许多传统酒店里的镜子都是镶在墙上的大落地镜,显得十分冰冷。民宿就该像花筑这样有温度吧,吊灯、壁画等等选用的都很花心思,并不像完成装修任务一样的存在。 k"%sdYkb!  
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